Buying from a pre owned RV dealer: as-is, warranties, certified

The first used RV I bought from a pre owned RV dealer was a 29-foot gas Class C with a “certified” sticker on the window, which I later learned meant little at used RV dealers in Salt Lake City. I drove it off the lot in Boise on a 95-degree July day, windows down because the dash AC was already dead, and by the time I hit Mountain Home the roof seam over the cab was lifting, which is why I now also check camper van dealers in Salt Lake City when I’m in Utah. The dealer had certified it, but I’ve learned to be just as careful with Class A motorhome dealers in Salt Lake City. Two months later I paid $1,240 for a roof reseal at a shop in Twin Falls, and now I always compare motorhome dealers in Salt Lake City before buying.

Any pre owned RV dealer can put the words “as-is,” “certified,” and “warranty” on a buyer’s order, and they dont mean the same thing from one lot to the next. The difference comes out of your pocket later. That’s why I also look into RV consignment in Salt Lake City when I’m comparing prices.

If you’re comparing used RV dealers in Salt Lake City or anywhere else, ask exactly what they inspected and what they’ll fix, in writing, before you sign. And check out used RV dealers nationwide for more options.

What does “as-is” actually mean at a pre owned RV dealer?

As-is means you own whatever breaks the day after you drive off. The dealer makes no promises about the roof, the slide motors, the water heater, or the generator.

The Buyers Guide don’t cover the living space anyway. I bought my used 24-foot travel trailer as-is with a handshake that the leaky bathroom skylight was “already fixed.” It wasn’t. Cost me a Saturday and $80 in lap sealant, but it could of been $3,000 in floor rot.

So when I look at dealers now, I start with used RV dealers nationwide listings and compare what their as-is policy says in writing.

Dealer warranties on used RVs: 30, 60, 90 days, and what they actually cover

A used RV dealer warranty is usualy short: 30, 60, or 90 days.

Read the list. The dealer who sold me the Class C offered a 60-day warranty that covered “major systems,” wich turned out to mean the engine, transmission, and rear axle. The roof wasn’t a major system.

I’ve shopped camper van dealers in Salt Lake City since then, and I ask the same question at every lot: “Show me the written list of what this warranty covers.” It’s never there.

“Certified” and “inspected” at a pre owned RV dealer: ask for the checklist

Certified is a marketing word unless someone puts a checklist behind it.

Before I buy, I ask for the inspection report. Not the summary. If they re-sealed a seam, there’s a parts invoice for a tube of Dicor and a labor line. Ask for it.

My checklist has saved me twice. On the fifth wheel, the dealer’s inspection missed a cracked slide seal, and I caught it because I opened the slide and ran a dollar bill along the gasket.

If you’re comparing RV consignment in Salt Lake City, ask whether the consignment dealer did their own inspection or took the seller’s word. The good ones send a written report to both sides.

Reconditioning records at a pre owned RV dealer: what they fixed and what they didn’t

Every used RV on a dealer lot has a reconditioning file, whether they call it that or not.

Ask to see it. It also showed they replaced a slide motor, which is a $900 job I didn’t pay for.

Here’s a small table of sale types and what to ask before you sign:

Sale type	What you get	What to ask
As-is, no warranty	Nothing promised, the unit as it sits	“What did your inspection find, and can I see it?”
30/60/90 day dealer warranty	Limited list of covered items, often coach systems only	“Show me the covered parts list and the claims process.”
Certified or inspected	A checklist, maybe reconditioning work, often no written warranty	“What exactly did you fix after the inspection? Send me the repair orders.”
Consignment	Dealer sells for private owner, no dealer warranty usually	“What did you inspect, and does any factory warranty remain?”

That table took me ten years to learn, and I overpaid on the Class C because I didn’t ask any of it.

Implied warranties and state differences at a pre owned RV dealer

Some states impose an implied warranty of merchantability on a dealer sale: the RV must be fit for ordinary purpose, meaning it should provide shelter and be safe to drive.

I don’t rely on implied warranties because proving a defect existed at the time of sale costs more than fixing it. Instead, I get every promise in writing. A salesman saying “we’ll take care of that leak if it shows up” is not a promise. It’s a phrase.

Check your state’s used vehicle law before you pay. If the dealer is one of the motorhome dealers in Salt Lake City, ask how Utah handles as-is disclosures on the coach portion. The answer tells you how they think about risk.

I found this video helpful when I was learning what to look for at a dealer.

Third-party service contracts on a used RV from a dealer

A dealer will often pitch an extended service contract on a used RV, especially a motorhome. It’s not a warranty; it’s a contract from a third-party administrator that pays for covered repairs after a deductible. Prices run from $1,500 to $7,000, and the coverage can be exclusionary or stated-component. I bought one on the Class C for $3,200 and cancelled it after the first claim took six phone calls and a denied roof repair.

If you’re considering one, read our post on RV extended warranty cost before you sit in the finance office. The best contracts let any licensed shop do the work and pay the shop directly. The worst ones have a $200 deductible and a $95/hour labor cap that no shop in Boise meets.

A service contract is not a substitute for an inspection. It’s a bet against future repairs, and the house always sets the odds.

What a pre owned RV dealer must tell you: the FTC Buyers Guide and the state rules

The FTC Used Car Rule requires dealers to display a Buyers Guide on used cars and trucks. A motorhome is legally a vehicle in many states, so the guide shoudl appear, but it doesn’t cover the coach body or appliances. For towables, there’s no federal Buyers Guide requirement at all. Some states go further and require a specific RV disclosure form.

Ask for a written statement of any flood, frame, or salvage history. A dealer who says “clean title” but won’t show the title has a problem. I once had a private seller’s title show a lien from a credit union three states away; I walked and never looked back.

The safest approach at any dealer is to inspect anyway. Bring a flashlight, a moisture meter, and a checklist. Our post on what to look for when buying a used RV is the checklist I use, and it has saved me thousands.

The 20-minute test at any pre owned RV dealer

Before you sign anything, do this: ask for the inspection report, the repair orders from reconditioning, and the written warranty list. If the salesperson has to go ask a manager, wait. If the manager says “it’s in the file,” ask to see the file.

Then take the unit for a drive or pull it to a parking lot and run the slides, the generator, the water heater, and the fridge on both propane and electric. That’s a 20-minuite test that would have caught the Class C roof issue before I bought it.

I’d rather find a $1,000 problem on the lot than a $1,240 repair in Twin Falls. Pull up pre owned RV dealer listings near you, call two of them, and ask for a written out-the-door price on the same unit. Then ask the questions above. The dealer who answers clearly is the one to buy from.

Related reading

• RV dealer fees: doc, prep, freight and the add-ons to question
• How to read RV dealer reviews and pick a dealer you won’t regret